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Join The Perfume Society mailing list and be the first to know about all things fragrant. By browsing our site or closing this message, you agree to store Cookies by us and third-party partners. But there’s one snag with this exquisite material:  it’s been ‘blacklisted’ by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) as a potential irritant, its use restricted by European regulation to 0.1% in perfume compositions that are applied to the skin – a restriction which has sent ‘noses’ into tailspins in labs across the world, as they were forced to remove or reduce this lynchpin ingredient in their often very famous formulations. However, as Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser explained to us, whenever something is removed from an ingredient through fractionation, ‘it leaves a hole’. Oakmoss, Evernia prunastri is the name for a certain type of reindeer moss that grows primarily on oak trees in Central and southern Europe. Its more romantic French name is ‘mousse de chêne, but this tight-curled plant – botanical name Evernia prunastri – is actually a lichen which grows on oaks throughout Europe and North Africa, only flourishing in unpolluted air. You must sign up for their newletter as well so please state that in your comment Andy, WORLDWIDE: 15 ml bottle Olympic Orchids Ballets Rouges (Dr Ellen Covey, Art and Olfaction 2016 Award Winner) classic chypre dgambas, USA and Canada: 50mL bottle of LNVEA La Forêt Dormante (April Lea) ALL NATURAL Mary, USA:  30 ml Soivohle Green Oakmoss (Liz Zorn) Rudy, USA: Cognoscenti no 8 Aldehydic Oakmoss (Dannielle Sergent) Harper, If you are one of the ten winners please follow these instructions, please email michelyn at cafleurebon dawt com with the  exact name of your perfume, ie 30 ml Aldehydic Oakmoss as your subject and your complete mailing and phone details by 10/30/2016 11:30 AM EST. It is also called Mousse de Chêne'. ), Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Oakmoss, Evernia prunastri is the name for a certain type of reindeer moss that grows primarily on oak trees in Central and southern Europe. ou must sign up for their newletter as well so please state that in your comment, ÇaFleureBon Profiles In American Perfumery, ÇaFleureBon Creative Directors In Perfumery, Perfumes (Created/Bespoke) For ÇaFleureBon, Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique & Apothecary, Reviews and Articles by Sr. Editor & Emeritus Robert Herrmann, Reviews and Articles by Deputy Editor Tama Blough, Amouage Enclave Review (Julien Rasquinet) 2020 +Juxtapositions Draw, Small Business Saturday 2020: Perfumology in Philadelphia +#Shopsmall Draw. It can range in colour from light green to black depending on whether it’s dry or damp – and it smells a lot more beautiful than it looks. Guerlain Mitsouko. 10 Best Oakmoss Perfumes Winners. Shop Now. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this…), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as ‘tree moss’ – Evernia Furfuracea – which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before it’s blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. Oakmoss smells earthy, and woody, sensual with hints of musk and amber and is really not like anything else in the perfumer’s ‘palette’ because it also works fantastically as a ‘fixative’ to give scent a longer life on the skin. Hey, presto:  Mitsouko – probably the most famous chypre in the world still available today – is restored to its former glory. Coty’s Chypre perfume, in 1917, popularised this type of fragrance – but in fact, chypre scents, inspired by the island of Cyprus, had been beguiling people for centuries. The use of oakmoss in perfumery goes back a long, long way. Harvey Nichols & The Perfume Society Fragrance Discovery Box 2020, We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -. WIN ALL THREE new Ruth Mastenbroek candles. Thierry’s stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Steffen Arctander in his seminal book on fragrance ingredients, Queen Makeda -TheTrue Name of the Ethiopian Queen,…, Aldehydes In Perfumery + It’s Chemistry Baby Draw, CaFleureBon Musk in Perfumery: Of Skin and Skank +…, Givenchy L’Interdit 2018 Review (Dominique…, Smoky Eyes and Smoky Perfumes: The Allure of Scents…, Fragrances of Film Noir: Scenting Five Femmes Fatales, New Fragrance Reviews: Ivoire de Balmain (1979)…, In Defense of Natural Perfumery as Olfactory Art by…, CHANEL Gabrielle (Olivier Polge) 2017~New Perfume Review, Guerlain Mitsouko Centennial 1919-2019: The Scented Skein. Only use your details to keep you informed about the Perfume Society fragrance Discovery Box 2020, we your. Your usage of our site or closing this message, you agree to store Cookies us... 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